Why the dishwasher does not turn off - a failure in the control module
Failure of a given mode is considered one of the most common reasons causing the incorrect operation of any household appliance. This problem can be recognized by the error code flashing on the display, as well as by the fact that the machine freezes in the first minutes. The best solution in this case is to reboot and select the correct mode. To do this, disconnect the device from the network for 15-20 minutes and then turn it on again. If even after rebooting the dishwasher hums and continues to work without stopping, you should check the pump responsible for draining (this part has an electric motor that can burn out due to power surges).
Non-stop operation of the dishwasher may indicate other problems:
- Damage to wiring and electronics, due to which the unit does not receive a shutdown signal;
- Failure of the pressure switch - if the control module receives incorrect data from the water level sensor, the dishwasher will hang on the drain;
- Problems associated with control triacs (combustion of parts, oxidation of controller contacts). In this case, the buttons on the control panel are not pressed, the modes do not start, and the device itself freezes.
Can I repair the electronic board myself? You can, if you have experience in this kind of work and know how to use a soldering iron. But you should think twice, because the cost of a new board will cost much more than the most urgent repair of dishwashers in a professional workshop. If you do decide, follow these tips:
- Unscrew the bolts at the ends of the door.
- Remove the front panel.
- Disconnect the wiring and remove the board.
- Check the serviceability of the triacs using a multimeter. Set the device to voltmeter mode and apply the instrument probes to each of them in turn. Having found the broken element, carefully unsolder it and take it to the store as a sample. The new part must match your model exactly.
- Solder the faulty element.
Problems with the control module
Symptoms: any, but, as a rule, the washer does not start at all, there is not even any water supply
The worst and most expensive thing that can happen to a PMM is a breakdown of the control module: it cannot be repaired - only replaced: it itself is not cheap, and even replacement and diagnostic work costs a lot of money.
group: message participants: 5,044 resides: Russia, Russia, Moscow
group: members+ messages: 32,013 resides: Russia, Moscow
| The dishwasher stopped working properly. How to continue living Stops in the middle of the program, immediately after washing with hot water. There should be a rinsing cycle next, but it is not done. It looks like the aquastop is working. After the first shutdown, it didn’t work—it didn’t take water. But today it started working and if I turned on the pre-rinse program, I completed it completely. But when I tried to run the full wash program, I again stopped in the middle and again did not take water. It seems that for some reason the AquaStop system is triggered after hot water. I called several technicians, but they all refused to look, citing the antiquity of the machine. But I don’t want a new one - I don’t like the very long washing cycle. Mine does a full wash in 65-70 minutes, while the new ones take two and a half hours. |
group: message participants: 5,044 resides: Russia, Russia, Moscow
| 30 minutes is a lighter option for washing. With lower water temperatures and fewer water changes. I'm familiar with new models, since there is one in the village. However, that's not what the topic is about. |
group: members+ messages: 14,953 resides: Russia, overlooking Moscow
group: message participants: 5,044 resides: Russia, Russia, Moscow
group: members+ messages: 14,953 resides: Russia, overlooking Moscow
group: members+ messages: 15,132 resides: Russia, still here
| In general, cleaning equipment helps in most cases. Secondly, why did you decide that it was an avostop? And if it’s him, maybe there’s a reason after all, i.e. - a leak? Third, if after it’s hot, then, as an option, steam gets into the electronics and the protection is triggered. ps I’m never a master, purely logical calculations |
group: message participants: 5,044 resides: Russia, Russia, Moscow
I would be glad for any advice, since I don’t feel like buying a new one.
| I took apart the dishwasher. Water flows from a hose that leads from I don’t know where, but into the pan. And there it plays the role of a fuse, that is, water flows from it directly into the pan, and there is a float there, which turns off the machine. Water from this hose begins to flow at the moment when the dishwasher pours water into the tank from the side container. I inserted the hose into the bottle, the water drained there, and the machine worked the entire cycle. According to the master, it is the filler valve that is leaking, which is not and will not be available for this model. I found a disassembly of a similar valve on one of the forums, but I don’t know whether mine will be the same. Here's the hose where it's leaking from |
Read also: Why you can’t transport a refrigerator lying down
group: participants+ messages: 20,928 country: Russia
Try to understand more precisely where the current hose is coming from. There, all the hoses in the pan must be emergency, i.e. overflow, drain when level is exceeded. Localize the breakdown.
220V, or =24V, or =12V. Either way, these valves are like dirt. For any voltage, different designs. If one doesn’t fit, you install another, the thread is not the same, you make an adapter. If the solenoid does not work, then simply put a new one on the old valve.
In short, localize the problem more accurately. The valve is not the problem.
group: participants+ messages: 20,928 country: Russia
A leak may be due to the primitive reason of an incorrect or large amount of powder. When there is a lot of foam inside.
| Yes, still. |
group: message participants: 5,044 resides: Russia, Russia, Moscow
There is only one emergency there. There are two more, but one of them leads somewhere, and the second is muffled. As I understand it, it is for draining water from the block before dismantling. The hose comes from somewhere below from this block
Here's how in this thread https://www.elremont.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13470 I have nowhere to grind the rod
group: participants+ messages: 20,928 country: Russia
Purely logical. Here's a plastic block. Some are dirty, some are clean. The bay is a dirty area, a clean area is circulation during washing. This block itself is a kind of replacement for a bunch of valves and tubes. Everything in it is based on Archimedes' law. Water flowing out during filling is overflow drainage. What does this mean? This means that the water being poured either has a very strong inlet flow or a very weak outlet. Strong pressure at the inlet is unlikely, leaving a weak outlet. And the weak solution is dirt. This means you need to carefully look at where the flow goes when drawing water and clean this channel. Maybe the drainage is up to the filter, then a clogged filter will cause an overflow.
That's right, logic. Maybe not literally, but somewhere like that.
With water it’s simple, everything is visible. I've been struggling with air conditioning for a week. I just figured it out today. One transistor was slightly burnt. I even desoldered it and checked it - it works. But in the block this circuit (water valve) does not work. I was already thinking that maybe one of the controller outputs had burned out, even though everything else was working. In short, I gave up on the Soviet transistor today, after a bunch of experiments, everything worked.
group: banned messages: 31,231 resides: Varna - Moscow
| I didn’t read into the posts about disassembling the machine, but when our washing machine started behaving like this, it turned out that the heating element had burned out due to scale. A short circuit occurred and the program went astray. Moreover, the master immediately determined the reason over the phone. They called from A-Iseberg. He arrived very quickly and replaced everything. |
Subscribe to topic
Notification by e-mail about replies to a topic during your absence from the forum.
Subscribe to this forum
Notification by e-mail about new topics on the forum during your absence from the forum.
Download/Print theme
Download the theme in various formats or view a printable version of the theme.
Clogged and broken filter
Another reason why the dishwasher drain pump does not turn off is a clogged filter. With such a problem, waste water simply cannot go down the drain and will constantly return to the bunker. In addition, mechanical damage to the filter can also lead to continuous operation of the equipment, if present, it must be replaced.
Internal blockage
One of the main reasons why the PMM does not turn off is the presence of food particles on the impeller of the electric motor. At first, this causes the pump to freeze, but if the problem is not corrected in time, the pump will simply burn out. To clear internal blockage, use these instructions:
- Open the tank door.
- Remove all dish baskets from the dishwasher.
- Find the water drain filter under them, unscrew it and clean it of debris.
- Use a sponge to clean the hole just behind the filter.
- Unscrew the protective cover.
- Remove dirt and foreign objects from the impeller.
Electric pump failure
What to do if the dishwasher does not turn off, and not one of the above methods did not give the desired effect? In this case, you should diagnose the electrical unit responsible for the operation of all equipment. This is done according to the following scheme:
- Unplug the dishwasher cord from the outlet.
- Close the inlet valve.
- Disable all programs.
- Turn the dishwasher cabinet on its side.
- Twist the assembly and remove it from its place.
- Disassemble and carefully inspect all parts. If the pump shows any signs of wear, it is better to replace it.
- Unscrew the bolts that hold the bottom.
- Unscrew the clamps on the pipe and disconnect it from the pump.
Where to order professional dishwasher repair
In order for your equipment to work properly, it is necessary to monitor it by regularly carrying out preventive cleaning of filters and external communication water supply systems. If a breakdown does occur and the dishwasher does not turn off, then it is better to call a specialist for diagnosis and repair. To do this, just call or leave a request on our website and choose a day convenient for you for the visit of the Service master. Explain the signs of breakdown and name the make and model of your dishwasher - this will help the specialist quickly understand the problem and restore the functionality of the unit. Cooperation with Service is:
- accumulated invaluable experience over many years of our work
- quick diagnosis and repair of any dishwasher breakdowns
- guarantee for all types of services
- high-quality work from the best specialists in the field
- polite and courteous communication with clients
- fixed prices for all types of services
- full financial reporting for work performed
Call us any day, including weekends and holidays, because we are always ready to provide truly “first aid” to your equipment!
Post by STG » 17 Jun 2008 15:53
Posted by bun » Jun 17, 2008 7:49 pm
Re: BOSCH dishwasher - drain pump does not turn off
Post by volna2m » Jun 17, 2008 8:19 pm
A gentleman is a person with whom you feel like a gentleman. Repair of washing machines, dishwashers, sewing machines and boilers in Nizhny Novgorod
Post by STG » Jun 17, 2008 10:44 pm
Posted by bun » Jun 18, 2008 11:25 am
The situation is akin to a disaster when a home assistant refuses to turn on. Sometimes the opposite happens. The machine has faithfully completed the washing cycle, washed the dishes, but does not want to turn off and continues to work. It can be stopped by turning off the machine through which it is connected to the network, or by pulling out the power plug from the outlet. The situation is not only unpleasant, but also promises unexpected repair costs. If the BOSCH dishwasher does not turn off, you will most likely need:
- Replacing or repairing a control module (board, unit)
If the BOSCH dishwasher does not turn off, the most likely cause is a malfunction of the electronic control module (board or unit). This is a direct consequence of the deviation of the supply voltage parameters (usually amplitude) from the nominal value by an amount exceeding the permissible value. In most cases, the malfunction appears after a sudden power outage and its resumption. Occurring in electrical circuits in the so-called. During the transition period, processes lead to burnout of conductive tracks, passive elements (resistors, capacitors, inductors) and semiconductors. Often the failure of a control module (unit, board) is so serious that the cost of its restoration (repair) turns out to be commensurate with the price of a new unit. In this case, it becomes advisable to replace it; - Replacement (repair) of the drain pump (pump).
If the dishwashing program has ended, but the machine does not turn off - the drain motor continues to function - the pump that pumps water out of the washing chamber (tank) may need to be repaired or replaced. To exclude the possibility of the electric motor windings catching fire due to its long-term continuous operation in an emergency situation, we advise you to disconnect (de-energize) the dishwasher from the mains and call a technician. After diagnosing the malfunction and identifying the root cause, he will determine what to do with the pump - repair or replace. In some cases, you can get by by replacing the sensors involved in the drain pump control circuit.
Read also: How to weld a cast iron part
It should be remembered: an attempt at unqualified repair or reprogramming of the PMM control module or drain pump is fraught with even greater negative consequences, including a fire. Therefore, when a BOSCH dishwasher does not turn off, it is advisable to entrust the problem to an experienced technician from our service center.
Triggering of the Aquastop protective system
Dishwashers from Miele, NEFF, SMEG and other modern brands are often repaired because the leakage protection is triggered (error code E15). A special system, which is a float sensor, is located at the bottom of the device and is triggered at the slightest amount of water entering the pan (instantly drains the liquid into the sewer). If the leak is constant, the machine simply will not be able to work properly - the sponge located in the inlet hose will swell and block access to the flow. To bring it back to life, it is necessary to find and repair all leaks, as well as install a new filler tube.
Pressostat clogged
Why won't my dishwasher turn off and the pump run? Another reason for this phenomenon is considered to be a clogged pressure level sensor, due to which it shows unreliable data. The pressure switch itself is a round part equipped with a membrane, contacts and a narrow tube connecting the relay to the PMM tank. This hose accurately monitors pressure changes in the chamber and measures the amount of fluid, so if it becomes clogged with debris, the signals will become inaccurate. To fix the problem, remove the plastic box located near the circulation pump, disassemble the pressure switch and rinse the tube under high water pressure.
If you have done everything possible, but the dishwasher still does not turn off, contact a qualified technician who can repair dishwashers from Siemens, Electrolux, Bosch and other well-known brands. This will be much faster and more reliable than continuing to search on your own.
Preliminary actions
When a problem is discovered, you should not immediately disassemble the device to look for the cause of the failure. More often than not, everything is much simpler. Therefore, it is recommended to perform the following operations:
- Checking the power supply. First you need to make sure that the power button is pressed. It may seem funny to some, but quite often housewives simply forget to plug the plug into the socket and call a technician to fix the problem. To avoid getting into such an awkward situation, you need to carry out preliminary manipulations. If the plug is on, then you need to check the socket. You should connect another electrical appliance to it to make sure there is voltage in the network. If the device is working, you should check the dishwasher's power cord to see if there is damage.
- Checking water supply and drainage. Often the drain or water supply hose is kinked, making it difficult or impossible for fluid to move. Therefore, you need to inspect the hoses. You should also check the tap to see if it is open to supply water to the device.
- The door is not closed. The dishwasher may not turn on as a result of the door not being closed tightly. Something could have gotten between it and the device body, for example, sealing material or a broken lock. The breakdown requires repair.
- Pressure in the water supply system. A low reading may cause the dishwasher to fail to operate. Therefore, it is very important to check this parameter before purchasing equipment.
Read also: Homemade metal clamps with your own hands video
If these simple steps are completed, you can move on to more complex ones.
