BOSCH washing machines have a wide range of self-diagnosis functionality. Considering that the list of typical breakdowns is limited (the Bosch washing machine does not drain water, does not turn on, does not heat the water and the heating element needs to be replaced), it is often possible to repair the machine yourself. Even if the user does not decide to fix the problem at home, specific knowledge of the problem will be useful. For example, to independently purchase spare parts or to exclude “imposed” work by dishonest workshops.
The article discusses a complete list of errors displayed on the display for various malfunctions of the Bosch washing machine. Instructions for troubleshooting popular problems are also provided.
Diagnostic mode
Washing machines do not display all the errors described below to the user on the display or through indicators. To obtain the most complete information, there is a diagnostic mode, which can be entered through a sequence of switching controls. Let's look at the example of the bosch maxx 5 model (similar to the bosch maxx 6 and bosch maxx 7).
- Plug in the machine and close the door.
- Move the program selector to the vertical position.
- Wait 2-3 seconds.
- Move the selector to position 8.
- Wait for the Start/Stop button to flash.
- Press and hold the “Spin speed” button.
- Move the selector 1 position clockwise.
- Release the button.
The washing machine display or a combination of indicators will display the latest machine malfunction.
To start a new test, you need to select the analysis program using the selector.
| Position | Test element |
| 1 | — |
| 2 | — |
| 3 | Engine |
| 4 | Drain pump |
| 5 | heating element |
| 6 | Hot water fill valve |
| 7 | Water inlet valve for main and prev. washing |
| 8 | Water inlet valve for main washing |
| 9 | Pre-water fill valve washing |
| 10 | Audio test |
| 11 | Auto test |
| 12 | Auto mechanic test |
| 13 | Autotest not mechanics |
| 14 | Quick auto test |
| 15 | Quick auto test |
Error codes
| Error code | Malfunction | Causes and solutions |
| F01 | The hatch door is not closed | Make sure that the door fits snugly and that there is a characteristic click when closing. The locking device or closing sensor may have failed. The door assembly can be replaced entirely or disassembled and replaced with the necessary parts: hinge, locking tab, etc. |
| F02 | Water does not flow inside | Check: — supply of cold water from the riser; — inlet filter for clogging; — serviceability of the intake valve. |
| F03 | The machine does not drain water | Drain the water manually. Check: — filter, drain hose for blockages; — serviceability of the drain pump. In the worst case, there is a problem with the control board. |
| F04 | Water leak in the system | Check the connections of all hoses and connections inside the machine for leaks. |
| F16 | The hatch door is not closed | Similar to error F01. |
| F17 | Water filling time exceeded | Similar to error F02. |
| F18 | Water drain time exceeded | Similar to error F03. |
| F19 | Water heating time exceeded | Check the integrity of the heating element circuit. Clean the heating element from scale. Make sure that the power of the heating element complies with the technical requirements of the machine, if it has just been installed. |
| F20 | Unexpected heating | The temperature sensor or heating element relay may have failed. A broken element must be replaced. In the worst case, the control board is faulty. |
| F21 | Drive motor does not rotate drum | You should remove the back cover and check the condition of the drive belt, its fit on the drum and generator shafts. Next, you need to repair the motor. If necessary, change it. The machine may also not turn the drum due to a faulty control board. |
| F22 | Temperature sensor error | Broken or short-circuited sensor contacts. You should ring the electrical circuit. |
| F23 | Activating leak protection | Similar to error F04. |
| F25 | Turbidity sensor error | Check: — sensor for the presence of limescale; — exhaust system for blockages; - drain pump. It is also possible that too dirty water comes from the riser. |
| F26 | Pressure sensor error | Possible failure of the sensor, solenoid valve, or depressurization of the system. |
| F27 | Pressure sensor error | Similar to error F26. |
| F28 | Flow sensor error (value out of range) | Check: — water flow into the system and its pressure; — serviceability of the solenoid valve. Perhaps the sensor itself has failed. |
| F29 | Water does not flow through the flow sensor | Check: — correct connection of the machine; — water flow into the system; — serviceability of the solenoid valve; Perhaps the sensor itself has failed. |
| F31 | The water level has exceeded the permissible maximum | Avoid incorrect connection of the machine. The intake valve or drain pump is broken. The pressure sensor is faulty. Check the drain hose for kinks. |
| F34 | The hatch door is not locked | Check: - door fit; — locking mechanism; — electrical circuit of the blocking sensor. |
| F36 | Door lock is faulty | Check the wiring and replace the locking device if necessary. |
| F37 | Temperature sensor faulty | Similar to error F22. |
| F38 | Temperature sensor short circuit | Check the sensor-board electrical circuit. Replace sensor. |
| F40 | Power supply error | The cause can be all sorts of problems in the power supply: low voltage, power surge, etc. You should try connecting to a different power line (for example, through an extension cord). Call an electrician. |
| F42 | Maximum engine speed exceeded | The engine or speed sensor has failed. Problems with mains voltage. Control board failure. |
| F43 | Engine lock | Avoid mechanical blocking of the drum or drive belt by foreign objects. The drum bearing has failed. Excessive tank loading. |
| F44 | No reverse engine | Reverse relay is broken. The drum is overloaded. Control board failure. |
| F59 | Drum position sensor error | Sensor failure. Uneven position of the device on the floor. Drum overload. |
| F60 | Flow sensor error | Similar to errors F28, F29. |
| F61 | Lock sensor error | Same as F36, F01. |
| F63 or | Enabling functional protection | Software error. CPU error. Replacing the control board or reprogramming the software. |
| F67 | Controller error | Replacing or reprogramming the unit. |
| E02 | Engine failure | Complete replacement of the unit. Repair is possible if the cause is wear of the graphite brushes of the motor or the rotor bearing. |
| E67 | Control unit error | Similar to F67. |
Bosch washing machine errors F01-F28
However, in order to understand what washing machine errors indicate, you must be competent in deciphering these encodings.
If an error occurs, you should not try to correct the cause yourself if you do not have the proper experience and required knowledge. You should call a specialist who can not only correctly identify the cause of the breakdown, but also eliminate it in a timely manner. Also, if the washing machine is under warranty, you need to contact the Bocsh brand service center, where you will be provided with quality service. Possible error codes and factors influencing their occurrence are given below. F01 – malfunction of the washing unit door lock. You need to check the tightness of the sealing gum or whether laundry is stuck between the body and the door. If this is not the reason, then the blocker needs to be replaced.
F02 - liquid does not enter the washing machine. The problem occurs during the water collection process, i.e. the liquid does not enter the washing machine tank or, on the contrary, exceeds its optimal amount. With this error, the fill valve may become clogged or clogged, or even break down and fail. It is also possible that the sensor responsible for determining the water level and the controller is faulty.
F03 - this error code is issued by the machine when the water drains slowly or does not occur at all. This error appears when the contacts and conductors of the drain pump are broken or damaged. The sensor responsible for the water level of the machine is damaged or out of order. It is also possible that the drain tube or filter is clogged.
F04 – water may be leaking from the cavity of the washing unit. To resolve the problem, all leaks must be repaired.
F16 – occurs when there is a malfunction of the device responsible for locking the washing machine door. If this problem occurs, the door lock lock may be faulty, and the wiring and integrity of the electronic controller may also be compromised.
F17 – time interval for water injection has been exceeded. It is necessary to check whether the water supply tap is turned off, and also inspect the integrity of the water supply hose. The water level sensor or its contacts are faulty.
F18 is the same reason as in F03, but the problem lies precisely in the malfunction of the pump, which needs to be replaced.
F19 – the water does not heat up at all or very weakly. If a problem occurs, there may be several reasons:
- The tubular electric heater has become unusable.
- The temperature sensor is faulty.
- The water level control sensor has failed.
F20 – water is heated too quickly. If this error occurs, it is worth replacing the temperature sensor and its relay.
F21 – the electric drive does not work or does not work as it should. When this error appears, replace the motor power supply or rewind the drive.
F22 – NTC temperature sensor is faulty. In this case, this temperature sensor must be unscrewed and replaced with a new, working one.
F23 – start stopping water injection. The reason is water getting on the wiring contacts and oxidizing the latter.
F25 – the water purity control sensor has failed. The reason is that the pressure switch is clogged, as well as the presence of deposits on it.
F26 – the pressure sensor has become unusable. In this case, it must be replaced.
F27 – pressure sensor is not working correctly. If this error occurs, contact the service center to repair the electrical equipment.
F28 – the water pressure control sensor is faulty.
It is necessary to check the sensor for functionality and check the wiring contacts. See also -
Why does the washing machine take longer to wash than the specified time?
Main machine malfunctions
No water heating
If the machine stops heating the water completely, the automation will report this with a corresponding error. But it is possible that the heating is insufficient or slow. This can be understood by the increased running time of programs (especially if washed at high temperatures). The reasons may be as follows:
- Damage to the temperature sensor (thermostat)
The sensor looks like a silver cylinder. It is inserted from the outside into the hole of the heating element. There is wiring from the sensor to the control board. If the wiring is intact, the sensor cannot be repaired and must be replaced.
- Heating element malfunction
A heating element is a metal coil with an electrical conductor and a fuse inside. It is inserted into the working cavity of the washing machine under the drum, where it heats the water. From the outside, voltage and grounding from the control unit are connected to its terminals.
Failure is associated either with a burnout of the electrical circuit (fuse tripping), or with scale on the coil due to lime deposits. If the circuit of the coil itself is intact, then you can clean the working part of the heater with citric acid or special descaling agents. Otherwise, it is necessary to replace the heating element, which is not very difficult.
- Control module failure
If the “brain” of the washing machine fails, the heating command (voltage) is not sent to the heating element, and the malfunction may manifest itself intermittently and unpredictably. In this case, only flashing or replacing the board can help.
Extraneous noise during washing
First, you should make sure that the extraneous sounds are not coming from metal/plastic parts of the clothes being washed. Run “soft” clothes or a short cycle without clothes at all. If the sounds are not lost, the options are below.
- Foreign object between tank and drum
Having slipped through the holes of the drum, small buttons, bones from women's underwear, etc. hit it when washing. Disassembly required.
- Bearing failure
Bearings and seals on the drum and motor shafts are subject to serious loads, and their natural wear is faster the more intensively the machine is used. If you hear a characteristic metallic grinding noise during the washing and spinning process, this is most likely the problem. Replacing bearings is one of the most difficult repair procedures.
- Shock absorber wear
The machine may creak and hum during spin cycles due to wear and excessive stretching of the shock absorbers - the metal springs on which the drum is suspended. They should be changed in pairs to avoid distortion.
- Free movement of counterweight
A counterweight is a heavy stone (concrete) pad attached to the drum from the front to absorb vibrations during spinning. If the bolts holding it in place are loose, unnecessary vibrations and loud knocking noises may occur.
Engine problems
Motors in Bosch washing machines come with direct drive and commutator drive. The latter are equipped with carbon brushes, which create an electromagnetic field in the motor rotor when friction against its walls. Worn bristles make it impossible to start the engine. They need to be replaced.
Other problems may be related to electrical issues: power surges in the network, interturn short circuits in the motor windings, etc. Such malfunctions are usually fixed at a service center.
The drum does not spin
If the engine is working properly, but there is no rotation, you should go through the options.
- Tank lock
Avoid any mechanical blocking of the tank rotation. A foreign body can be located both inside and outside it.
- Drive belt wear
The rubber belt that transmits rotation from the motor shaft to the drum shaft can shift, break, or stretch. To check it, just remove the back cover. It can be easily changed independently, you just need to purchase a spare part strictly in accordance with the machine article number.
- Control unit malfunction
Failure of the control module is diagnosed by excluding other causes and by starting from an “external” known-good board. As a rule, it can only be repaired in workshops.
Water does not drain
- Mechanical problem
The drain hose may be pinched or kinked. It is also worth unscrewing and checking the filter of the washing machine, located in its base. If it is also clean, you can try disconnecting the drain hose from the point of entry into the sewer and running a program to drain into a bathtub, sink or large container. This will prevent clogging of the siphon (if any) or sewer pipes.
- Broken water level sensor
If the sensor is broken, the control board may stop the drain pump prematurely or not start it at all.
- Pump failure
A pump (or drain pump) is a small motor with a plastic impeller that pumps water into the drain system.
A sure sign of its failure is a quiet low hum of the machine when trying to drain the water and the absence of water gurgling at the same time. The windings of the pump motor hum, but the mechanism itself does not spin. The cause is often lime deposits.
The part needs to be replaced.
Incorrect system operation
Unpredictable, unsystematic behavior of the washing machine usually indicates a breakdown of the control unit. Stops, long pauses in washing cycles, a strong discrepancy between the actual execution time of programs and the stated duration are sure signs of a brain breakdown. Also, the machine may simply not turn on, not spin, or open at the end of the program.
In devices with electronic control, the board must be replaced. The procedure is not complicated, but the cost of the part can reach half the price of a new machine. Electromechanical models with a programmer allow you to “reflash” it
Malfunction of the control module (electronic controller)
The control unit contains the operating algorithm of the washing machine. He receives and gives commands to all machine components. If the module fails, then the programs in the Bosch washing machine are lost or the CMA does not turn on at all.
| Signs | How to fix | Cost* (work only) |
“Symptoms” of a faulty Bosch machine control board can be very varied, from “doesn’t work” to no spin. Here are the most common of them:
The breakdown may be accompanied by errors F67 and E67. | Most often, the control board fails due to power surges or due to moisture getting on it. This leads to burnout of radio elements and/or burnout of tracks. If the board malfunctions, the technician conducts diagnostics and, based on the nature of the damage:
| from 2500 rub. |
*Prices are only for the work of the master, spare parts are paid additionally.
DIY washing machine repair tips
General advice
When more or less seriously disassembling a car, you have to unscrew a lot of screws and self-tapping screws. It is better to photograph each fastener element near its regular place or write it down on paper. This will significantly save time during reassembly.
The same applies to all kinds of sensor terminals and cables suitable for the control board (if you have to disconnect them).
Replacing the heating element
The first thing to do is gain access to its terminals. Simply remove the back cover of the machine.
Then you should exclude a possible breakdown to the housing: sequentially make sure that there is no circuit between each of the terminals and the housing.
Next, you need to check the continuity of the circuit between contacts L and N and measure the resistance between them. Depending on the power of the heater, it should be within 24-28 Ohms (R=U2/P). For example, a Bosch maxx 4 has a heating element power of exactly 2 kW and a resistance of 24.2 ohms. If it is very small or very large, replacement is necessary.
When purchasing spare parts, you need to pay attention to the following parameters:
- power (always indicated on the heater itself);
- length (too long may not fit into the tank);
- a hole for a temperature sensor (should be present if there is one in a broken sample);
- curb in a rubber seal (similar).
The last one is very important, because if there is no curb, water will flow directly to the contacts of the heating element when filling the tank. To make it easier for the heating element to fit into the connector, silicone lubricant of the rubber part is useful.
Causes of breakdown and repair
The motor is an important part in a washing machine. Thanks to its operation, the drum rotates during washing. Therefore, if you do not solve the problem, you will not be able to use the SM in the future.
However, the cause of the breakdown may not lie in the engine itself.
Brush wear
80% of breakdowns when error E02 is issued occur on the carbon brushes of the electric motor.
Over time, they wear out, causing the engine to stop. What signs may indicate brush wear:
- The washing machine, as always, draws and drains water, but the drum does not spin.
- You hear a noise and notice sparks under your Bosch washing machine.
How to troubleshoot if error E02 is on:
- Unplug the washing machine.
- Disassemble your Bosch washing machine.
- The motor is located below the drum.
- Remove the drive belt and disconnect the motor wires.
- Remove the screws that secure the motor.
- Remove the motor, press out the carbon brush contacts.
- Remove the brushes. Check: if they are almost or completely worn out, they need to be replaced.
Rotor bearing failure
If you hear a noise when spinning clothes or notice a leak in the tub, the cause is water trapped in the rotor bearing.
What to do to solve the problem and reset the error:
- Install a new electric motor in a Bosch washing machine.
- Remove the motor and take out the rotor. Remove the protective cover from the bearings. After cleaning and processing, lubricate the bearing.
- Completely replace the bearing.
A fairly common failure is considered to be deformation of the rotor axis. In this case, the user may hear rumbling sounds when the motor rotates.
A new rotor needs to be installed.
