Replacing the bearing on an Ariston washing machine

Replacing bearings for an Ariston washing machine (Ariston)

Using the example discussed below, the bearings of an Ariston washing machine were replaced.
During operation, the rubber seal of the tank begins to let water through, which gets on the bearings, causing corrosion and accelerated wear. The average bearing life is 6–10 years. Before starting repairs, it is necessary to disconnect the washing machine from power and provide access to all its side surfaces. At the first stage, you need to empty the tank and remove it from the machine body. To do this, gain access to the inside by disconnecting the plastic plug located on the back wall of the machine, in the base area. Unscrew the tension screw of the clamp that secures the drain pipe to the tank. Disconnect the pipe from the tank.

Disconnect the motor power supply contacts. Remove the drive belt. The photo on the right (removing the belt) shows another washing machine, but the principle of removing the motor is also relevant for other models.

Unscrew, not completely, the two bolts securing the electric motor. Alternately, carefully apply pressure on one and the other bolts with the handle of a hammer to move the engine off the skids. After this, finally unscrew both bolts and, holding them, remove the engine.

Right there, at the bottom of the tank, there is a heating element. Disconnect the power contacts from it. Also disconnect all wires from the tank. Go to the top of the Ariston washing machine (Ariston). Unscrew the two screws securing the top cover from the rear wall. Slide the cover back and disconnect it from the body.

Pull out and remove the detergent dispenser. This will allow you to access the two control panel mounting screws that need to be removed.

Unscrew the second pair of mounting screws from the top (right and left). Detach the control panel, first from the dosing hopper, then the lower part.

The rubber cuff of the hatch (seal) is secured to the front wall of the washing machine using a metal wire clamp tightened by a spring. You need to find the tension spring by moving along the perimeter of the cuff edge. Use a flat object to pry the spring, gently pull it and remove it along with the clamp. Disconnect the cuff from the washing machine body. Disconnect the hatch lock by unscrewing the two fastening screws (pictured on the right).

Move to the bottom and detach the plinth panel from the front. We do this with a flat object, prying up the top edge of the panel. Now you have full access to the fastenings of the front wall of the Ariston washing machine. Unscrew two screws from the top (right and left) and several screws from the bottom.

Move it up a little and disconnect the front wall. Access is gained from the front to the inside of the machine. We unscrew the fastening bolts of the front, lower counterweight of the tank (in this example there are three bolts).

Disconnect and set aside the lower counterweight. We move on to the upper counterweight, unscrew the fastening bolts and carefully remove it from the seat of the plastic tank.

Unhook and remove the plastic clamp securing the rubber filler pipe to the tank. After this, it will be possible not to disconnect unnecessary elements, but to move the entire dispenser hopper to the rear wall and temporarily place it there.

Disconnect the level switch (pressostat) tube from the tank. Thus, only the suspension system (shock absorbers and springs) remains to be disconnected. We start with the shock absorbers, which are located at the bottom of the washing machine. The upper end they are attached to the tank, the lower end to the bottom of the machine. You need to disconnect the end of the shock absorber that is attached to the tank.

In this model, both ends of the shock absorber are secured with a plastic pin on the latch. One end of the pin is pointed, the other has a hole. In order to pull out the pin, you can use a self-tapping screw, which must be screwed into the hole of the pin as shown in the photo.

On the other hand, the plastic pin has a latch that prevents it from moving spontaneously while the washing machine is operating. You can tighten the latch using a spanner. Then, holding the key with one hand, with the other, using pliers, carefully pull out the pin, holding the screw.

Disconnect the shock absorber from the tank, moving it towards the side wall. Go to the top part, namely the suspension springs. Using a flat object (in the photo it is a slotted screwdriver), pry and disconnect the retainer for the upper fastening of both springs.

Check again whether all the elements are disconnected from the tank, after which it can be removed from the suspension springs and pulled out of the body of the Ariston washing machine. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the wiring and other elements of the machine that are located around the tank. To remove, the tank must be lifted up until the springs are completely loosened and disconnected. Then, carefully moving it outward, remove the tank and place it with the cuff down on the stands so as not to damage the plastic elements of the tank.

The second stage of repair to replace bearings is disassembling the plastic tank of the Ariston washing machine. You need to start by removing the drum pulley. To do this, you need to unscrew the fastening bolt, locking the pulley using the wooden handle of a hammer or other object. After this, remove the pulley from the shaft.

Sometimes this process is difficult, then you need to be patient and use your hands around the perimeter to pull the pulley toward you until it is completely removed from the shaft. Under the pulley there is a small part of the drum shaft and an outer bearing.

Place a wooden block on the shaft and use a hammer to knock the shaft out of the bearings. After this, you can begin to disconnect the two halves of the tank from each other. To do this, you need to unscrew all the screws securing the two halves around the perimeter of the tank.

After all the mounting screws have been removed, carefully insert a wide slotted screwdriver into the gap between the two halves of the tank and turn it around its axis in several different places. Once the gap between the halves has widened, use your hands to separate both halves.

One of the halves can be easily removed, but the drum needs to be removed from the other. If this cannot be done right away, then you need to once again attach the block to the drum shaft and additionally apply several blows with a hammer to the block until the drum separates from half of the tank.

After the drum is finally released, it is necessary to check the shaft and bushing (most often it is bronze) for damage. If the washing machine was operated for a long time with faulty bearings, they could partially or completely collapse and damage the shaft and bushing. If the shaft or bushing has strong grooves and chips, then the new bearings will not fit tightly on the shaft, and the oil seal will allow water to pass through, which will again lead to wear of the bearings.

Therefore, if the shaft and bushing are in good condition, then you need to thoroughly clean them of rust and deposits. When cleaning the shaft, you can use fine sandpaper. When cleaning the bushing, it is not recommended to use sandpaper; this may damage the oil seal. The bushing is cleaned with the finest abrasive sponge or other means to keep it absolutely smooth.

Also, when inspecting the drum, it is necessary to check the cross with which the shaft is attached to the drum. The silumin material from which the cross is made is sometimes destroyed by the aggressive environment in the tank. Then the rigidity of the shaft-drum attachment is broken, which leads to noise and vibration during spinning, and subsequently to the complete destruction of the washing unit.

In this example, the drum shaft with the cross is being replaced, since it is damaged (pictured in the center). The photo on the right shows half of the tank, into which the old bearings are pressed.

Old tank bearings must be knocked out using a metal rod (for example, a chisel) and a hammer. It’s more convenient to start with the outer bearing (pictured on the left). The chisel must be positioned as shown in the photo, while being careful not to damage the bearing mounting sockets. When striking, it is necessary to move in a circle so that the bearing does not warp. After removing the outer bearing, turn over half of the tank and knock out the inner one in the same way. The difference between the internal bearing is that the tank seal will also come out with it.

The photo on the right shows the new bearings, tank seal and drum cross with shaft.

Replacing Ariston bearings.

As a result of prolonged use or due to a manufacturing defect, the drum of the washing machine may become damaged. Usually the following damages cannot be repaired: damage to the walls with the formation of a hole or destruction of the bushing seat. In such cases, there is only one solution - to install a new element. Replacing a washing machine drum is a very labor-intensive procedure, as it involves disassembling the entire main device.

Manufacturers usually do not supply drums separately. They are sold complete with a tank.

The process of disassembling the washing unit will differ slightly depending on the type of product: top-loading or front-loading. But before starting work, you should perform the same steps for both models: unload the laundry, unplug it, remove the inlet hose.

In such models, the drum is mounted in one place - to the rear wall. This feature requires the following actions:

Unscrew the screws that hold the back wall;
remove the entire cover (including the powder container, control panel);
pull out the hatch cuffs;
remove the wiring and disconnect the bolt that holds the drum at the back.

It is better not to completely unscrew the control panel, but simply move it to the side to avoid damage. If removed, it is recommended to photograph the wires to make it easier to return everything to its original place.

In such models, the drum is attached to the walls on both sides, which naturally complicates its removal. The operating procedure is as follows:

unscrew the screws on the front and rear walls;
remove the side panel;
remove all wires and unscrew the remaining screws.

We suggest you familiarize yourself with How to wash a ski suit in a washing machine. The second side panel is removed in a similar way. Then you need to remove the screw for attaching to the shaft and pull out the drum.

Specialists strongly recommend taking photographs of all the main stages of work, so as not to confuse the sequence of actions later.

To remove worn bearings, you can either use a puller or use a metal rod and a hammer. If you are not a household appliance repairman and for the first time in your life you decide to replace the bearings yourself, then most likely you do not have the necessary tools, and for a one-time repair there is no point in buying a new tool. Therefore, for both removal and installation, you will have to use the second method. The main thing is to be careful and extremely careful.

So, the following components were installed in our Ariston machine:

bearing Ariston 6205 and 6204, one piece each;
Ariston machine oil seal with a skirt 65*30*52*10 mm, where: 30 mm internal diameter, 52 mm external, 65 mm is the diameter of the skirt, 10 mm thickness.

We install new spare parts. As I already said, if you don’t have a puller, take a hammer and very carefully hit the edges of the outer race of the bearing, gradually seating it in the seat. The main thing in this matter is not to damage the separator. When the new bearing is almost completely seated, take the old one and place it on top of the new one, using it as a guide and continue to carefully seat it in place.

Before installing the crosspiece on the tank, be sure to clean the drum shaft and the outer surface of the tank, in the place where the oil seal skirt is pressed against the tank, using a rag and sandpaper. We lubricate the inside of the oil seal, I use molybdenum grease. Now we need to install our crosspiece in place.

Having lightly put it on the shaft, we begin to push it deeper, lightly tapping it with a hammer along the edges. Next, we put on the pulley and firmly tighten the fixing screw, thereby finally placing the cross onto the shaft. Now we tighten the eight screws, having previously tightened each of them for proper alignment. We put on the drum drive belt, assemble the Ariston machine, and check it in water mode. Good luck with the repair.

Similar

How to replace a bearing on an Ariston washing machine

Does your washing machine “jump” around the room during the spin cycle? Do strong vibrations, noise and hum interfere with your normal stay in the apartment? It is worth thinking about checking the equipment and its parts. Most often, the cause of such symptoms is wear and tear on the moving parts of the machine. In the article you will find information on how to replace the bearing on an Ariston washing machine and what disassembly sequence to follow.

SMA disassembly process

You need to disassemble the washing machine to get to the tank. To remove it, follow these sequential steps:

Disconnect the plug on the rear wall and unscrew the clamp securing the drain hose. Remove the pipe from the tank.
Disconnect the motor power connector.
Remove the drive belt - this is best done from the drum side.
Remove the electric motor. To do this, you need to partially unscrew the bolts, then gently press on the mounting bolts to move the motor from the skids. As soon as it gives in, we unscrew everything completely and remove it.
After removing the engine, turn off the heating element. It is located at the bottom under the drum.
Disconnect all remaining wires.
Next, to get to the tank on the Ariston washing machine, you need to remove the top cover. It is attached with two bolts to the rear wall, after unscrewing them, you need to slide the cover back and remove it from the machine.
After removing the top panel, you need to pull out the powder container and disconnect it from the drum. This will give you access to the remaining mounting screws. Unscrew them too.
Remove the control unit.
To dismantle the tank, it is necessary to disconnect the rubber seal. It is attached to the front wall with a metal clamp with a spring. To find the garter spring, you need to check the seal around the perimeter. Once you have found the spring, you need to disconnect it using a flat-head screwdriver, pulling it towards you along with the clamp.
Remove the hatch lock. It is secured with 2 bolts on the right side.

We have almost freed the tank, but to completely remove it we need to remove the front panel. In the Ariston washing machine, to do this, you need to disconnect the base panel - the front wall fastenings are hidden under it. It is held on by several screws. To remove the front cover, move it up.

With the front cover removed, the tank counterweights can be easily accessed and unscrewed. The counterweights are attached to the bottom and top of the tank using three bolts. A rubber filling pipe, which is attached to a clamp, fits into the tank. It must be removed and after that you don’t have to disconnect all the elements individually, but simply move everything unnecessary to the side.

All that remains is to disconnect the tank suspension and the level switch tube. It's worth starting with shock absorbers. They are located at the bottom of the washing machine. We disconnect the shock absorber from the tank by pulling out the plastic pin with the latch. To make it easier to dismantle the pin, you need to screw in the self-tapping screw and pull it towards you, while simultaneously squeezing the latch with a spanner.

To remove the suspension springs, you need to pry them off using a flat-head screwdriver. Simply pry up the fastener with a screwdriver and disconnect it from the drum. Now we check again that all elements are disconnected from the tank. To remove the tank, you need to lift it and pull it towards you.

It is best to place the drum on the cuff, otherwise the plastic elements and fasteners may be damaged.

Step-by-step replacement instructions

Any equipment can be disassembled with your own hands according to a single scheme:

The side panel is released, the screws are unscrewed using a screwdriver. Remove the support and release the pulley. Release the belt by removing the side panel.
The locknut is unscrewed and the pulley is removed.
The shaft grounding elements are removed.
To consider the direction of unwinding, parts are cleaned with special paper, similar to sandpaper.
The oil seal is released using calipers of different threads.
The seals are treated with a special lubricant included in the kit.
The new caliper is wrapped, attention is drawn to the arrow indicators. They show the sides of the twist.
The bearing and oil seal are replaced in a similar way.

How to remove the tank?

The process of dismantling bearings is very labor-intensive. To get to the unit, you will have to almost completely disassemble the washing machine. You can cope with the task yourself, without resorting to the help of a specialist. The main thing is to strictly follow the recommendations and instructions.

The first stage of work is to remove the tank. The algorithm of actions will be as follows:

de-energize the SMA;
disconnect equipment from house utilities;
move the machine to have access to the back of the case;
Unscrew the bolts securing the back wall and move it to the side;
remove the drive belt;

Take a photo of the diagram for connecting the sensors and wiring to the washing machine tank, heating element, this will help you avoid mistakes when reassembling the equipment.

disconnect the sensors from the tank. To do this, pry off the rubber bands with a slotted screwdriver and reset each group of wires;
remove the ground from the shaft by first loosening the nut at its base;
disconnect the wiring supplying the heating element;
remove the heating element from the housing. To do this, loosen and push the bolt securing it inward;
unscrew the two screws from the top and lift the front panel up, while being at the back;
using a 13mm socket, remove the metal plate holding the tank together;
fix the flywheel with a screwdriver, unscrew the central nut and remove it;
remove all the bolts located at the middle joint of the tank;
grab the tank and pull it out.

This method is convenient in that there is no need to remove counterweights, the engine, dampers, powder receiver and other components of the SMA. It is the drum with one half of the tank that is removed - this significantly simplifies the repair. Afterwards, you can begin to dismantle the bearings and seals and then replace them.

Advice from the experts

Experts advise adhering to the following recommendations:

Independent replacement is possible when the model of the machine is precisely determined and the necessary elements are selected for it. You also need tools for dismantling and replacing spare parts.
Before disassembling the machine, you need to prepare the room. All unnecessary elements are removed, and space is freed up in the room for storing the removed elements.
To avoid damaging the hatch, it is disassembled separately. First, disconnect the lock mechanism and its wiring. Then remove the hatch door, having first unscrewed the screws that hold its hinges. Only then do they remove the bolts and dismantle the necessary part of the body.
It is easier to change flanges and bearings on a top-loading machine than on a horizontal-loading machine. The side panels are removed first, and only then the shaft of the smaller flange.

Replacing a bearing yourself does not seem difficult if you study the progress of the work in advance and thoroughly prepare for the process. Knowing the brand of the washing machine and having prepared the necessary tools for dismantling, you can easily carry out repairs.

Preparing the tool

Begin any job by preparing what may be required. For example, you may need a room or a spacious room in which it will be convenient to disassemble the car and store spare parts so that they can be easily found later. This is often the first problem on the way to repairing the washing machine yourself. Having disconnected the machine from all communications and placing it in a convenient place, we prepare the tool . May require:

hammer;
pliers
flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
metal rod;
bearing puller;
waterproof lubricant WD-40;
sealant;
open-end wrenches;
marker.

In addition, new bearings and seals will be needed. If you know in advance what you need, you can buy them at the store. If not, then disassemble the machine and remove the faulty bearings, look at their markings and buy similar ones.

We disassemble the machine: we take out the tank

As you disassemble the washing machine step by step, you can take photos so that you can use them to put the equipment back together. Although this is not necessary, because in the video on this topic, everything is described in detail and has already been recorded.

So, we present the analysis of the Ariston front-facing machine in the form of the following algorithm:

Unscrew the plastic cover located on the back wall of the case.
Unscrew the bolts holding the top cover and remove it.
We also remove the back wall of the case.
Loosen the clamp on the pipe attached to the washing machine tank and remove the pipe.
We take out the chip with wires from the electric motor.
Remove the drive belt. In an Ariston machine, it is removed, as in many other washing machines; this process is described in detail in the article on how to change the drive belt in a washing machine - video.
Loosen the 2 bolts holding the engine.
Gently press on the bolts, holding the engine, then unscrew them completely and remove the engine from the car.
Next, disconnect the power supply contacts from the heating element located under the tank.
We check and disconnect all sensors.
We move on to the front part of the case - take out the powder receptacle.
Under the powder receiver we find the bolts holding the front panel and unscrew them.
We unscrew 2 more bolts from the top, they also hold the control panel, and disconnect it.
Remove the rubber cuff from the drum.
We remove the bottom panel of the case and unscrew all the bolts that secure the front wall of the machine.
Remove the front part of the housing.
Unscrew and remove the counterweights.
Disconnect the filler pipe from the tank.
Remove the hose leading from the water level sensor to the tank.
We remove the niche for the powder receptacle.
Unscrew the shock absorbers.
Using a flat-head screwdriver, remove the spring clamps on which the tank hangs.

We make sure that everything is disconnected from the tank and take it out of the car.

Having pulled out the tank of the Ariston washing machine, you need to place it on the stands with the cuff down. Thus, half the way to get to the bearings has been completed. And that's not the hardest part.

Preparing to replace bearings

To replace the bearing in an Ariston washing machine, the equipment must be disconnected from the water supply, sewerage and network, and then moved to a place convenient for work. You will also need to drain the remaining water, this can be done through the emergency drain hose. It is located in the lower front part of the washing machine, under the decorative panel. If it is missing, you can drain the liquid through the filter located there. Taking this opportunity, the part can be cleaned of debris and dirt that may have accumulated there over the years of operation.

Next, tools and spare parts are prepared. To carry out the work you will need:

set of flat and Phillips screwdrivers,

bit,

pliers,

set of socket wrenches,

WD-40,

silicone sealant,

mallet or hammer.

New bearings and seals (they will also need to be replaced) can be purchased at a service center or in a specialty store, or ordered online. Parts should be purchased in accordance with the model and brand of the Ariston washing machine.