Do-it-yourself bearing replacement in an Indesit washing machine

When the bearings come out of alignment, the drum rotates with difficulty, stops, and may even jam. The automatic washing machine practically stops washing, let alone squeezing. In case of such a breakdown, repairs cannot be delayed. If the bearing seat breaks, you will have to replace the drum. A faulty bearing will cause the spider, pulley or motor to fail. You can replace the drum bearing yourself or contact a service center.

Causes of wear

The washing machine drum should rotate freely inside the tub. This rotation is ensured by serviceable bearings.

Causes of wear may result from:

• natural wear of the oil seal, which after 5-7 years of operation begins to harden, deform and, as a result, allow water to pass through, causing corrosion of the bearings,
• prolonged use of the washing machine as a whole and, as a result, wear of all parts,
• improper operation (the washing machine must be operated correctly and periodically treated with special descaling agents).

How many bearings are there in washing machines of popular brands?

One of the most pleasant properties of washing machines is their quiet operation. Models such as Samsung, Ariston, Zanussi or Bosch make virtually no sound, even when in the process of spinning a full drum at maximum speed. Bearings located on the drum of the washing machine ensure silent operation, which is indispensable for every household appliance owner. Let's find out how many bearings there should be on the drum of a washing machine in order for it not to be heard during operation, and how models of popular brands differ from each other according to this criterion.

Diagnosis of failure

Rumble and hum when the drum rotates in the washing mode, breakdown of the spin mode and rapid wear of the drive belt indicate a faulty bearings.

You can verify this by carefully inspecting the washing machine.

To do this, you need to open the door, grab the top of the drum with your fingers, try to swing it and determine whether there is play in the drum mount. And then spin the drum from the inside with your fingers, listen and try to catch extraneous noise.

If there is play, but there is no extraneous noise, this means that these parts have begun to deteriorate, but replacing them can be delayed for several months.

If there is play, and there are also characteristic noises (grinding, hum, rumble), but the drum rotates freely and does not stop, you need to change the bearings as soon as possible.

If the drum moves with a terrible grinding noise and even stops, it is generally dangerous to use this washing machine and requires urgent repairs.

What bearings and oil seal are on the INDESIT washing machine?

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Correspondence table for oil seals, bearings and belts for INDESIT washing machines.

To answer the question of which bearing is on the drum in the Indesit washing machine, we have compiled this table. It is not complete, but the information is updated over time.

You can purchase these spare parts today in the spare parts store for household appliances E152.RU

Spare parts table for Indesit washing machines

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What bearings are in Indesit machines?

For each model, spare parts are selected in accordance with the design features. You can find out which bearing specifically is in a particular washing machine from the Operating Instructions, or by removing old spare parts from a disassembled machine. When replacing parts, you must strictly follow the original size and choose identical parts.

The following bearings are usually installed in Indesit washing machines:

• 203,
• 204,
• 205,
• VA2V 633667.

Replacing a bearing in a washing machine with your own hands: save on calling a technician

Any equipment breaks down sooner or later. Washing machines are no exception, the repair of which is quite expensive. And the most common breakdown of such units is the failure of bearings. You can save on calling a technician and take the equipment to the service yourself, but this will require physical effort and time. Repairing at home is easier, but the cost also increases. In this case, the best option would be to replace the bearing in the washing machine yourself. Today we’ll talk about how difficult it is to do such work, and consider the nuances inherent in different brands.

Necessary tools for repair

In order to disassemble the washing machine and change the bearings, you will need:

• large pliers with rubberized handles,
• pliers with a narrow, elongated working part,
• set of wrenches,
• screwdrivers (Phillips and regular flathead),
• a screwdriver with replaceable bits (star bits must be included in the kit),
• round pliers,
• chisel,
• hammers (rubber and regular),
• if the tank is not dismountable, you need a tool for cutting the tank (grinder, hacksaw or jigsaw),
• It is advisable to have specialized pullers that will simplify the process of removing bearings (if they are not available, you can use auto tools or improvised mechanical devices).

Also, for disassembly and further assembly you will need consumables: WD-40, silicone sealant, special waterproof glue and clamps for fastening wires of different diameters.

ATTENTION! The table is for informational purposes only!

Some washing machine models may have different sets of bearings and seals depending on the serial number!!!

Phased renovation

To replace the bearing in an Indesit washing machine, you will need a tool and a general understanding of the operating principles of household appliances. The complexity of disassembling the machine is determined by the design of the tank. In new Indesit models, the tank is non-dismountable, plastic; in older models, the iron tank is disassembled. A non-separable tank will have to be sawed and then glued.

Disassembling the washing machine

For those who decide to change the bearing on an Indesit washing machine on their own, it is recommended to photograph the disassembly process while working in order to later assemble and connect the machine correctly.

First, the washing machine is prepared for repair work. It is disconnected from the power supply, water and sewerage, the remaining water is drained, moved to the work site and the detergent dispenser is pulled out.

Then you need to remove the cover of the washing machine by unscrewing the screws on the back of the case, as well as the cover of the service hatch on the rear wall, which is also held on by screws.

Next, opening the machine door, remove the outer clamp of the cuff, separate the cuff from the outer part of the body and tuck it inside.

The top of the tank must be emptied. To do this, the dispenser hopper and pipes are removed, and the counterweight is disconnected (if it is located on top). The terminals are removed from the control unit.

At the bottom of the machine, remove the contacts from the heating element and temperature sensor from the tank. After this, remove the clamp from the tank, and then disconnect all the wires that are attached to the tank. Then the wire belt is removed, the motor and heating element are disconnected and removed.

The tank is pulled out and placed on a horizontal surface for further work.

Removing the Drum

If the tank is collapsible, then you need to remove the pulley from it (it is attached to one bolt) and recess the shaft inside the tank. Now you can remove the top part from the tank and take out the drum.

If the tank is not dismountable, it will have to be cut along the outer edge or along the seam. Then the tank is turned over, the pulley is removed and the shaft is pressed in likewise.

The drum is removed, and access to the oil seal and bearing appears in the tank.

Removing old bearings and seals

Before dismantling the oil seal and bearings, it is recommended to clean their visible parts from dirt mechanically (this will make them easier to remove). The bearing is carefully knocked out with a blunt chisel and hammer, distributing blows around the entire circumference so that it comes out straight. All actions should be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the tank.

The bearing most often flies out at the same time as the seal. Or the oil seal is taken out separately after the bearings.

Replacement with new parts

Before installing new bearings and an oil seal, it is necessary to wash the shaft, clean it from dirt and treat the places where they are attached with lubricant (for example, Litol-24), select bearings and an oil seal of the required size, identical to those used previously.

First, the outer bearing is installed. It is hammered along the outer edge of the part. Next, the internal bearing is installed in the same way. It is recessed relative to the inner surface of the tank. An oil seal is placed on top of it, which is generously lubricated with grease.

The drum is mounted in the tank in its original place.

The quality of the repair work can be checked by unscrewing the drum in the tank with your fingers. If nothing interferes with the movement of the drum and there are no extraneous sounds, then the bearings are installed correctly.

Reassembly

First, the tank is assembled (or glued together). Then a pipe is installed (its fastening can be sealed with sealant), a cuff, a heating element and a temperature sensor. The tank is placed back into the housing. It is recommended to clean and rinse all removable rubber parts before assembly. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Rating of the best

A hit parade of the most reliable bearings, collected from reviews from experts (the question was asked directly), as well as from forum ratings and based on our voting.

• KOYO

  is a Japanese manufacturer collaborating with Toyota. Some of the best bearings for industrial laundries, expensive high-speed models from Kuppersbusch, Haier, Electrolux, Miele, Bosch, AEG. Very precise assembly, durability (although they love lubrication), but also one of the most expensive in price.

• SKF

  is a Swedish company, an iconic manufacturer of bearings for all household appliances, cars, equipment and machine tools. Factories are located all over the world. For some reason, bearings from France are quoted in Russia, although Italy, Bulgaria or even China are no worse. As for the “out of the box” or “out of paper” criteria, the box is still preferable, there is less chance of running into a fake.

• NTN
  is a Japanese manufacturer. Good quality, not found very often, can be installed unambiguously. Some craftsmen look for supply channels and work only with them. Low noise level.
• FAG
  is a German company, but, as elsewhere, production is scattered around the world (25 cities). Good quality, no defects, perfect assembly. Repair kits are mainly used for Samsung washing machines. But there are also for LG, as well as other popular ones.
• Timken

  - American brand. A special technology with a deep groove, in terms of service life - the longest possible, with a living seal it will work for 15 years. The downside is that there are often fakes.

• CX

  - Polish consumer goods. There are also products made in China. In general, good and affordable products, but sometimes there are lots with defects. Somewhere there are scratches on the outer side of the clip, somewhere there are defects in the plastic plugs. CXs are also considered to be noisier.

• NSK

  - a Japanese brand, both original and licensed from Poland are supplied to Russia. They have very good protection from moisture and small abrasives (especially models with a rubber boot), high-quality steel. There is an opinion that they last a long time, but do not withstand overloads and vibrations very well.

• FBJ

  – according to the official version, the bearings are manufactured under a Japanese license, but in reality this is an international manufacturer from Asian countries. China, Singapore, Taiwan and so on. While FBJs do not run very well in cars, they last a long time in washing machines, especially with rubber-plastic protective inserts.

• J.V.B.

  - Chinese manufacturer. It’s hard to say anything special, you just sometimes come across them in markets and stores. Acceptable.

• CRAFT

  – Chinese-Lithuanian origin. One of the best ratios between price and quality. Complies with all GOST standards, cannot be counterfeited, and is cheap. There are workshops that fully work with these bearings, and the warranty periods are met. The quality sometimes fluctuates, but overall it’s not bad.

  Read also:  How to replace the drum bearing of an Indesit washing machine with your own hands
• VBF (VBF)

  – Russian bearings, Vologda plant. There are different opinions among owners of automatic washing machines and craftsmen. Basically, everyone notes the increased level of durability in recent years.

• EBI

  – some unscrupulous companies are positioned as Italian, but in reality they are China.

There are also very expensive ceramic bearings that are generally not susceptible to corrosion and deposits from alkaline water.
They are sold by the Chinese. Price – 1500-3500 rubles. It is difficult to judge how reliable they are, as mass use has not yet been observed in Russia. Very often, bearings for a washing machine come in a package from Ariston, Indesit, Ariston, Bosch and so on in the form of prefabricated “hodgepodges”, which can include both famous manufacturers and Chinese Noname. Many buyers are mistaken when they think that if the SMA brand is written on the package, then it is original.

Replacement features for top-loading models

In top-loading machines, the drum is mounted on two axle shafts. Therefore, such machines have two sets of bearings that must be replaced at the same time. After disassembling the machine, they first change the bearing on the side where there is no pulley, then on the opposite side. When disassembling, the direction of the thread should be taken into account. As a rule, it is different on opposite axes.

Armed with the necessary tools and theoretical knowledge, you can independently remove the bearing from the drum of the Indesit washing machine, select an identical one and install it back. It is useful to photograph the disassembly process. This will help with assembly.

Replacing a bearing in a washing machine with your own hands: algorithm of actions

Let's look at how to replace a washing machine drive bearing step by step. The first step is to prepare all the necessary tools, namely:

It is also necessary to prepare spare parts that will be used for repairs.

Replacing a bearing in a top-loading machine

This kind of work can be called the simplest. First of all, the side covers are removed, under which the components we need are located. Next, turn the caliper out from the side where there is no pulley. The thread here is standard - right-handed. The seat needs to be cleaned and wiped. The bearing itself is pressed into a plastic base, which means there is no need to apply too much effort. It is necessary to ensure that there are no distortions, which will lead to leaks and rapid failure of the unit.

Now let's move on to the second bearing. Here you need to remove the drive belt, pulley and grounding bar. Next, we perform the same steps as in the previous version, only the thread here is left-handed, which means you need to unscrew it in the opposite direction - clockwise. Don't forget to lubricate the bearings in the washing machine as thoroughly as possible before installation.

How to remove a bearing from a front-loading washing machine drum

In this case, you will have to work. Due to the fact that this activity is more complex, we suggest considering step-by-step instructions with photo examples. We will consider the algorithm of work, for example, LG brand cars.

Replacing a bearing on an LG washing machine

After completing all the steps, you can replace the bearings and reassemble everything in reverse order. If there is no bearing puller, use a hammer. The video below describes in detail how to knock out a bearing from a washing machine drum.

Analysis of a Samsung washing machine

Before disassembling a Samsung washing machine, you need to prepare your phone or camera and take pictures of the equipment before removing each part, especially before disconnecting the wiring. This is necessary to avoid errors when assembling the device and to prevent new malfunctions in case of incorrect actions.

Disassembling the washing machine occurs in the following order:

Unscrew the two screws located on the back side in the corners, slide the top cover back, lift it and put it to the side. Pull out the detergent compartment, press the latch down, slightly lift the cuvette and pull it out of its seat. Disconnect and put aside the hose for supplying water to the powder compartment and the pipe leading from the cuvette to the tank. To do this, you need to use pliers to release the retaining clamps. Unscrew the retaining bolts and remove the upper counterweight. Open the hatch of the Samsung washing machine. To remove the cuff, remove the clamp. To do this, you need to pry off the spring holding its edges with a screwdriver, remove it and remove it along with the clamp. After this, the edges of the cuff can be tucked inward. Close the hatch, unscrew the fasteners holding the front panel. Self-tapping screws are located at the top and bottom. Carefully slide into the panel to gain access and disconnect the sunroof lock wire. Move the panel to the side. Turn the Samsung washing machine on its side, unscrew the screws, disconnect and remove the bottom. Take photos and disconnect the wires going to the motor and drain pump. Disconnect the pipe going from the pump to the tank. Unscrew the fasteners, pull out and put the motor aside. Remove the tank mounting posts by first unscrewing the retaining screws on the tank and at the bottom of the housing. Unscrew and pull out the lower counterweight. Without changing the position of the Samsung washing machine (on its side), return to the top, disconnect the pipes and wires going to the water inlet valve

Unscrew the fasteners and pull out the valve. Disconnect the four counterweight springs that hold the tank and drum suspended. Unscrew the fasteners, carefully release the latches, disconnect the wires and remove the control panel.

Now you can remove the tank from the body of the Samsung washing machine.

• Place the tank in such a way that you have access to the pulley.
• Remove the belt.
• Block the pulley and unscrew the bolt holding it. If it does not give in, lubricate it with WD-40 and wait a little.
• Remove the pulley.
• Find a bolt similar to that holding the pulley, screw it in and knock out the shaft with light blows of a hammer. The blows must be applied at right angles so as not to bend the knot.

Now you need to disassemble the tank to remove the drum and replace the seals and bearings.

The halves are connected with special clamps that can be easily separated and removed. After they are removed, you need to open the tank in two and pull out the drum.

Before replacing the bearing, you may want to inspect and perform maintenance on other parts, such as inspecting and descaling the heating element.

It is also important to inspect the shaft and crosspiece: if they are damaged, they should be replaced, otherwise simply clean them of dirt and grease. For the shaft you can use fine sandpaper, for the cross - a rag or sponge

How to remove a part?

To remove the bearing from the drum of a top-loading washing machine, you still need to reach it. This is not an easy task and requires some technical skills. Before embarking on this most complex operation, you should adequately assess your capabilities, and if in doubt, it is still better to consult a specialist.

A simple listing of the preliminary stages clearly demonstrates the complexity of the upcoming procedure:

remove the top panel; remove the control panel; remove the back panel; remove the loading hatch door and front panel; remove the engine; remove the heating element with the thermostat; remove the counterweights from the tank; free the tank from shock absorbers and springs; remove the tank and remove the rubber cuff from it; divide the tank if it is collapsible, or saw along the seam if it is not collapsible; turn over the rear half of the tank, unscrew the bolt securing the drum shaft; remove the drum, carefully tapping the shaft, into which it is better to screw a mounting bolt in order not to damage the surface of the shaft; Remove the oil seal by prying it off with a screwdriver.

Before disconnecting the wires from the engine and heating element, it is better not to rely on memory and take a photograph or sketch their location.

You can start removing the bearings only with the drum removed. If you have a puller in stock, it will be much easier to do this, but such a specific tool is usually not kept at home. If it is not there, the bearings will have to be knocked out of the tank using a hammer and chisel.

After dismantling, it is necessary to carefully examine all surfaces for wear. If scratches are visible, it is better to replace the parts, since it will no longer be possible to fit the bearings tightly on them, and it will be impossible to avoid play. In addition, a worn surface will not allow even a new oil seal to perform its functions - to protect against leaks. Such repairs will not be effective, and soon the bearings will have to be replaced again.