Features of double needle sewing


Double needles for sewing machines are accessories with which a seamstress can perform many more tasks, do some work more accurately and better with less time.

For example, the element allows you to form a decorative seam on jeans or imitate flat seams on knitwear. It can be used on almost all sewing machines, regardless of the model.

How does a double needle work?

In essence, this product is a standard double needle. A common holder and bulb are used for two metal elements. The part is formed by the following elements:

  • A bulb that looks like a thick bulb with a flat back. When the needle is installed in the clamp, the flat part should point straight back;
  • Frame. It is the body based on polymer material that rigidly fixes the two needles, allows them to work synchronously, ensures the strength of the entire structure and the absence of deformation;
  • Kernel;
  • Long and short grooves;
  • Ear;
  • Point.

Types and models

Double needles are available in four main designs:

Universal. There are almost no restrictions on the material being processed; sewing with artificial or natural threads is acceptable. It is possible to form decorative seams, including zigzags, and work with low-density fabrics, be it tulle, silk or linen. Designation – “Universal”

Needles designed for stretch fabrics or fabrics formed by knitting. The peculiarity of such materials is their high degree of elasticity, they stretch, and a simple needle can get stuck in them. To eliminate this undesirable phenomenon, special needles are rounded at the end. Damage and ruptures are completely excluded. The product is marked “Stretch”

Working with high-density fabric is only possible with reinforced needles; simple ones can break, quickly become dull, or not provide sufficient efficiency. Examples of such fabrics are suit wool or jeans. Products are marked with the inscription “Jeans”

To work with threads that use metallized fibers, you must use appropriate needles marked “Metallic”

When classifying, you can also focus on the following parameters:

  • Dimensions. This includes the diameter of the needle rods and the distance between them;
  • The shade of the retainer, the body, which ensures the rigidity of the entire structure;
  • Tip shape (they can be straight or rounded, depending on the structure and density of the material being processed);
  • Dimensions of the needle eye.

A very important point is the dimensions. The main products are presented in 1.6, 2, 2.5, 3 and 4 millimeter models. Needles are used much less frequently, where the gap between the rods is 6 or 8 millimeters; they are aimed at performing specialized tasks and working with not the most common materials.

As in the situation with standard elements, the dimensions of double needles depend on the thickness of the rod. The thinnest ones are aimed at processing fabrics with elastic properties; they are number 75. To sew with threads with metallic inclusions, you need to use an 80-gauge needle.

The most universal are 90s, and for high-density fabrics, jeans, you need to use needles marked “100”.

The shades of the cases are a relative indicator; there are no specific standards here; each manufacturer uses its own color scheme. The main thing is to take into account what is written on the case, what numbers appear on it. The first number fixes the distance between the rods, the second – the dimensions.

How to thread a twin needle in a sewing machine

It is necessary to work only with original tools, as using a fake tool may cause the machine to break. Do not use deformed needles. They can break quickly and cause damage. These needles do not require a threader.

Step by step steps:

  • Insert a double needle;
  • Install the top thread for the left needle;
  • Manually insert the top thread into the eye of the left needle;
  • The thread must be threaded from the front;
  • Insert the second spool pin onto the bobbin shaft;
  • Place the spool and insert the top thread;
  • Start sewing the product.

The threading process is the same as with other types of needles. If the seamstress is a beginner and does not really understand this process, you should first watch several master classes, read manuals, and then start using the machine.

You might be interested in: The reasons for missing stitches when sewing with a sewing machine and how to repair them

How to choose double needles?

When purchasing, be sure to pay attention to the maximum width of the hole in the plate of the sewing device. If there is a wide gap, it is impossible to use a double needle.

The second point is the width of the zigzag seam on the sewing machine. If it is limited, for example, to 7 millimeters, then this is the largest allowable distance between the needles. Some machines only allow the use of twin needles if certain conditions are met.

This is especially true for older models, where it is necessary to center the working element as accurately as possible. If the alignment is disturbed, there is a high probability of the needle hitting the plate, damage to the shuttle, and complex and expensive repairs.

How to sew with a twin needle

Home → Machine sewing lessons → How to sew with a double needle

Have you ever had to sew two parallel lines? This happens when sewing sportswear.

It is very difficult to sew so that these lines are at the same distance from each other, isn’t it?

To simplify double stitch sewing, a double-rod needle has been created

There are different needle sizes and distances between them. The choice depends on the type of stitch you want to make. For example, for hemming the bottom of sleeves and garments, I prefer a needle with a distance of 4 mm. A stitch with this distance looks more professional on thick materials.

Read more about needles in the article Machine needles and threads for sewing clothes

Any machine that has a zigzag function can sew with a double needle.

This is due to the fact that a double needle requires an oblong slot on the needle plate

The same oblong slot must be on the foot

If this is the case on your machine, then feel free to insert a double needle. It is inserted in the same way as a regular needle.

Below, in the shuttle, nothing changes. You just need to thread the same thread that you will thread from above

Two threads are threaded at the top

There are some minor difficulties here. See how it's done.

If your machine has two spool holders, then you can take advantage of this opportunity and thread from two spools .

If this is not possible, then the photo option will help you.

Now take hold of both ends of the thread and thread them through all the thread guides as you would thread one thread, only in this case you have two threads in your hands.

But to thread the needles, you separate them

Here, of course, there are some nuances for particularly sensitive machines. In more detail, although it seems to be much more detailed, I tell and show at the training about sewing from knitted fabrics - Knitting Boom

In the meantime, we continue threading the needles

Let's try to flash it now. We will sew with a regular straight stitch, which, thanks to the double-rod needle, will turn into a double, absolutely parallel stitch.

In a product, it is usually laid on two (when hemming the bottom) or even three layers of material (for example, when sewing on a belt or pocket) But now, on one layer of material, it looks like this

And a view from the inside (click on the picture to enlarge the image) When the machine is well adjusted, it approaches a zigzag. Its strength in this case increases significantly. But more about this at the Knitwear Boom

In addition to its parallelism, this stitch is distinguished by elasticity and, therefore, it is indispensable when sewing from knitwear

For highly tensile materials, a double Hemline needle is suitable.

It is ideal for decorative stitching on fabrics with double-sided stretch (bi-stretch fabrics, lycra), especially those containing lycra elastic used in swimwear and underwear. A specially drawn needle prevents skipped stitches. It is recommended to use a reduced speed when working. BUY A DOUBLE NEEDLE

Finally, watch the video

    Related Posts
  • Edge machine seams
  • Edging the cut with bias tape
  • About the foot that sews and hems
  • How to hem the bottom with a two/three needle stitch on a sewing or cover machine
  • Correctly threading the machine - a beautiful stitch
  • Hem seam on overlock, rolled or casting

Discussion: 102 comments

  1. Olga:
    October 15, 2021 at 05:45

    Thank you. I was wondering how to use this double needle?! Finally I know. Thanks again!

    Best regards, Olga.

  2. Eleanor:

    February 18, 2021 at 11:59 am

    Thanks a lot !!!!! I’ve been sewing for a long time, but I didn’t know that it was possible to use a double needle.

  3. Elena:

    September 24, 2021 at 10:08 am

    Irina, thank you for the clear explanation.

  4. Olga:

    August 27, 2021 at 04:03 pm

    Hello Irina! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. You explain everything clearly. I really want to take the Knitting Boom course, but it’s not possible yet. Best regards, Olga.

  5. Irina:

    June 9, 2018 at 10:42 pm

    Irina, thank you very much. Everything is very clear

  6. Irina Voroshilova:

    May 29, 2018 at 10:27 am

    Larisa, there are many nuances here that I talk about in detail in the training/course Knitwear Boom - Student

  7. Larisa:

    May 28, 2018 at 09:37 pm

    Hello. I understand everything. Thank you. BUT!!!!! I have missed stitches under my left needle!!!! Why? Am I doing something wrong?

  8. Galina:

    May 20, 2018 at 02:53 pm

    Dear Irina!

    I have been sewing all my life - since I was 10 years old for myself, my children and grandchildren - due to the non-standard figure of me and my family. I came across your site, and from the first minute I found several answers to questions about working with knitwear, about using a double needle, which I bought several years ago, but did not know how to use it. I will study your tips and recommendations.

    Be healthy - you and your loved ones!

  9. hope:

    May 5, 2018 at 4:08 pm

    Everything is available, thank you very much.

  10. Lyudmila:

    April 15, 2021 at 06:34 pm

    Thank you very much, Irina! The information is useful, I will try to sew.

  11. Kuralai:

    April 11, 2021 at 20:00

    Thank you so much, Irina! Accessible, clear.

  12. Tatiana:

    March 25, 2021 at 11:38 pm

    Thank you! Very clear.

  13. Maria:

    March 25, 2021 at 12:36 pm

    Irina, many thanks for the information.

    I haven’t sewed for a very long time - there was no need.

    Now I'm retired and want to create.

    I have never sewn knitwear.

    Thank you, it’s very clear, I got answers to all my questions very briefly.

  14. Lyudmila:

    February 16, 2021 at 11:14 am

    Thank you, very short and clear

  15. Anastasia:

    January 14, 2021 at 06:51 pm

    Thank you, everything is very clear!

  16. Irina Voroshilova:

    November 28, 2021 at 03:04 pm

    Zhanna, “Collection of tips and secrets for sewing from knitwear”, as well as numerous information on sewing on the site, cannot be downloaded. But you can create such a folder yourself and copy it into it, which will be useful in the future. Better yet, keep a notebook (folder) of notes. In which you take notes on the fabric, make sketches of knots, and attach samples that you sewed according to the lesson. This will be really useful.

  17. Zhanna Filippovna:

    November 27, 2021 at 10:47 pm

    I sew a little. But YOU have so many interesting and unknown things that your eyes widen. Of course, there will be questions and I am grateful to YOU ​​in advance for the priceless book. Is it possible to download it so as not to dive into the Internet every time? Sincerely, J.F.

  18. Tatiana:

    November 22, 2021 at 09:23

    Irina, thank you very much for your advice. The first acquaintance with your advice is inspiring, everything is very intelligible and understandable. I am a pensioner, I sew (loudly said) only for myself and my charming dog Tim. I will definitely follow and study strictly according to your recommendations. THANK YOU.

  19. Tatiana:

    October 30, 2021 at 01:55 pm

    Irina is a godsend for me! I am very grateful for the advertisement from which I subscribed, Irina has so much useful information here - everything is useful, and we will continue to learn how to work with knitwear.

  20. Tatiana:

    September 10, 2021 at 01:44 pm

    Irina, there was just not enough knowledge of such nuances on knitwear! Thank you!

  21. Galina:

    September 6, 2021 at 5:24 pm

    I also liked the knife, otherwise when cutting the material rises and you cut unevenly... Thank you!!!)

  22. Irina Voroshilova:

    August 30, 2021 at 11:46 pm

    Marina, you can also sew on your Chaika with a double needle. I would recommend buying a serger first. Then your sewing life will be much easier and livelier!

  23. Marina:

    August 30, 2021 at 07:36 pm

    Thanks for the lesson, I would also like to exchange the Chaika for a new car

  24. Irina:

    August 14, 2021 at 12:33 pm

    I watched a video on how to sew with a double needle. I admit, I also have a double needle, but due to bad experience I don’t use it. I am self-taught in sewing, I was given a little knowledge at school, then I sewed a little according to Burda (I spoiled it a lot).

    I watched the video at work during lunch, but without sound. All clear.

    Today I’ll try to make a double stitch!

    Thank you very much for the useful information. I want to learn how to sew knitwear!

  25. Faith:

    July 24, 2021 at 07:55 pm

    Thank you... You can always learn something new from professionals like you!

  26. Irina Voroshilova:

    July 24, 2021 at 5:46 pm

    Irina, there is more than one reason for this, I invite you to the course or training “Knitting Boom - Apprentice” You will be informed, like a professional, about all the intricacies of sewing on a machine, including with a double needle.

  27. Irina:

    July 24, 2021 at 5:22 pm

    Irina, please tell me what’s wrong. Something happened to my machine and it started sewing only 1 line with a double needle ((Where could the failure have occurred?

  28. Irina:

    May 10, 2017 at 07:52 pm

    Thank you very much. Very instructive lessons

  29. Svetlana:

    April 17, 2021 at 02:22 p.m.

    My machine has one spool holder, thanks to your photo, I learned how to thread from two spools. Everything ingenious is simple. Thank you, Irina, for your good advice!

  30. Natalia:

    April 3, 2021 at 03:46 pm

    Hello Irina. A long time ago, even with advice, I bought myself a double needle, not knowing why, maybe it would come in handy. I tried to sew it, broke one and that’s it... put two in a box and forgot. Now, after reading your article, I understand why it didn’t work. The machine was a single stitch “Podolsk”. Now I’ll look for needles and try again. Thanks for the science.

  31. Svetlana:

    April 3, 2021 at 11:20 am

    Thank you very much! Everything is very clear and interesting. In my youth I sewed a lot and completed sewing courses. Then family and work took up almost all of my time. Now I'm retired and want to start sewing again. I really love knitwear, but I can’t sew on an ordinary machine (I have a Jaguar). I hope I can do it with your help. Thanks again!

  32. Elena Muzaleva:

    March 31, 2021 at 09:16 pm

    Irina, thank you very much! I have been sewing for a long time, but have not used a double needle yet. Thanks to your clear and visual video, I’ll try it next weekend!

  33. nati:

    March 30, 2021 at 02:34 pm

    Thank you for the lesson . It's nice to see the Master's work!

  34. Zoya:

    March 24, 2021 at 09:29

    Thank you for the lesson. The advice on coil placement was very helpful.

  35. Karina:

    March 23, 2021 at 4:16 pm

    Thank you, I really like that you don't pour a lot of water. Everything is specific and to the point. I sewed with a double needle, but I didn’t know that you could arrange the coils this way. Be healthy and Thank you!!!!

  36. Elena:

    March 10, 2021 at 12:55 pm

    Hello, Irina. Today I discovered your site for the first time and, I think, I will stay here for a long time. I would like to learn how to sew decent things from knitwear. I’m just looking closely, but I like everything: it’s clear and simple.

    Thank you. Elena

  37. Olga:

    February 20, 2021 at 08:25 pm

    Irina, thank you!

    I really liked the presentation of the material. Clearly. The comments are detailed.

  38. Elena Petrova:

    February 2, 2021 at 08:36 pm

    Thank you! Very necessary and useful information!

  39. Natalya Rusakova:

    January 31, 2021 at 03:37

    I like to wear knitted items, but many are too long, now I know what to do with it, Thank you very much for the lessons

  40. Irina Voroshilova:

    January 19, 2021 at 03:53 pm

    Regina, hello! In fact, sewing knitwear is not difficult. But you need to know the subtleties. I invite you to take the Knitted Boom-Student+ training and all your problems with sewing knitwear will disappear.

  41. Regina:

    January 19, 2021 at 03:29 pm

    So that’s the whole point - a double needle!!!!, but I suffered so much with this knitwear... THANK YOU IRINA!!!!!

    It’s just strange why there wasn’t such a needle in the standard “Singer” set? Hence the ignorance

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